19 Jul Indirock’s bouldering jargon busting series: S is for…
Next up in our series are words beginning with S!
Seam, Sloper, Sidepull, Static and more!
There’s a world of jargon associated with climbing, but is it all necessary? Our alphabet jargon busting series aims to de-code that jargon to make it more friendly to new comers!
S is for…
SEAM
A very thin crack.
SIDEPULL
A hold that points sideways; usually works best when used for some form of layback.
SLOPER
Sloping hold. Best use involves staying well below it.
SYSTEMS BOARD
A steep board on which the various hold types – pinch, crimp, sloper, pocket, undercut, sidepull – are laid out in a repeating, symmetrical pattern.
SIT START
To start a problem from a sitting position.
SLAB
When a wall tilts away from you – the opposite of overhang. Slab often gives the illusion of being easy to climb, but the problems are often more technical and “sketchy”!
SLAP
Desperate grab for a handhold.
SMEARING
Climbing up a wall surface using the friction of your shoes, without any footholds for your feet.
SOLO
To climb without ropes. This is a high-risk activity, especially when climbing beyond the height of bouldering.
STATIC
To do a move slowly and in total control. Usually used as the opposite of “Dyno”.
STEP THROUGH
Standing (usually with the outside edge) on the next foot hold with the foot furthest from it.
SPRAG
Using any available edge in a crack. When a crack is too thin to actually fit the fingers in, you can still gain some purchase with thumb sprags (which, confusingly, also involve the fingers). For example, with the right hand, make a half-fist. Now push the four fingers against the right-hand (nearer your wrist) side of the crack, and the thumb against the left-hand side. Amazingly, this can work at least to keep you on balance. Requires very strong hands to be used for any length of time.
SANDBAG
A problem which is harder than its grade. This can be either because it is undergraded, or requires a trick move to overcome the crux. Or it’s just more work than it looks.
SEND
American for “climb”. Must have originated in California, though why and when is anyone’s guess. Usage: “Dude, you really sent that problem.” Generally applied to bouldering problems, to give some idea of intensity.
SEQUENCE
Series of moves required to overcome a problem.
SPOT
To position yourself to catch, deflect or otherwise reduce the momentum of someone climbing solo if they fall. This is most often used outdoors and should not be attempted without training, as you may cause worse injury to them and/or yourself.
Watch out for the rest of our alphabet dropping soon. Meanwhile, you can read about words beginning with N here…
Indirock is Essex’s biggest bouldering wall, offering top quality indoor rock climbing for all ages. We also have a great coffee shop!